A journal of Zack's experience at JL Zwane Church and Centre in Guguletu, South Africa, summer 2007.

Friday, July 6, 2007

Table Mountain


Since I have had some heavy posts lately, it is time for something a bit lighter. By the way, comments on the blog are open to anyone for a good reason: if you are ever bothered, offended, pissed off, or otherwise violently disagree with something I post, leave a comment. Even a nasty one! Or a lovingly correcting one. Something Spiwo has said to me several times is that, as a foreigner and visitor, I will receive a lot of grace for making stupid comments. He finds this to be true when he visits the States, and he will sometimes ask very obvious or delicate questions simply because he knows he can get away with it. So, if I post something foolish, ignorant, or just plain wrong, you are invited to let me know what you think!


That being said, this post is sure to challenge the delicate sensibilities of no one. Cape Town is in a beautiful location, sandwiched between the sea and a huge, gorgeous mountain, which is visible from all around on a clear day. The "tablecloth" of cloud frequently covers the mountain, and in fact I was here for a week before I could even see it. There is a cable car to the top, but if you're reasonably fit you can also hike it. The unpredictable weather around the mountain makes the hike a bit dangerous if you are foolhardy (one or two tourists die every year on the mountain), since cloud and impenetrable mist can drift in suddenly, so that you are forced to sit tight and wait it out. Or go down blind and risk tumbling down the mountainside, or over a cliff. However, on a clear day like the one I went there is nothing to worry about. I took the cable car to the top last weekend (perfectly, breath-takingly clear) and had a look round. From the top you can see out to Cape Point, Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 28 years imprisoned by the Apartheid government), and the whole city of Cape Town unfolding below you. The city itself is pretty tiny, more or less walkable end to end, although with the suburbs and the Cape Flats thrown in there are about 3 million people here. The only place you couldn't see is Athlone, where I live, and Guguletu, because Devil's Peak is in the way.


Devil's Peak has a great story. There is a legend that an old Dutch pirate named Van Hunks, while climbing the mountain, encountered the Devil, who challenged him to a smoking match -- for his soul. The mists which often cloud Devil's Peak and the other mountains are the results of the ongoing contest. All of the hills and mountains in the range have great names, by the way: Table Mountain, Devil's Peak, Lion's Head, Signal Hill, and (my favorite) the Twelve Apostles.








After checking out the view from the top of Table Mountain, I took the hike back down, which again was stunning. Here are a few shots. 1) A photoI found online which shows Cape Town and the harbor with Table Mountain in the background. 2) This one is taken from the stairwell in the building where I live, which is to the east of the mountain and Cape Town. 3) Robben Island, South Africa's Alcatraz for political prisoners. Now a museum and UNESCO World Heritage site. I will go in August when they are done with restorations on Mandela's cell. 4) Me at the top, camera facing to the south. If I weren't in the way you could see Cape Point. 5) Cape Town from the top of Table Mountain. 6) In the ravine that led downhill. Amazing natural beauty. I had a big smile on my face the whole way down. I would have made it down faster if I weren't stopping to soak in the view so often. This was the last photo I took before my camera stopped working. It's now in the shop.





3 comments:

Anonymous said...

I'm sorry to say that I dont violently disagree with anything you've said. I think you describe your experiences very beautifully. And I am very sorry about your friend :(

Nicole said...

Zack - wow. First time I've had a chance to check your blog out was today and I've been engrossed for more than an hour now - have to stop and do work!!!

What an amazing experience you are having and I can think of no one more deserving of it. Thank you for sharing it with us too.

All is well here - can't wait to see you next month. Will send you proper e-mail soon!

Take care my friend...

Unknown said...

Greetings Zack,
I heard from Erin Rafferty about your blog and I would like your permission to link it to my blog! (transatlantica.wordpress.com)

I haven't looked over your site closely yet, but look forward to doing so soon!
All my love,
Erin